Salon Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne Le Mesnil 1997
Salon
The wine is pearlescent: a pale, lustrous gold with a fine, lively mousse. The nose is wonderfully refined and intriguing, its minerality complemented by hints of white flowers, acacia and hawthorn. A salty note enhances aromas of bread crust, brioche and a touch of green apple and hazelnut. The palate is quintessentially pure, the very epitome of balance and restraint. Exuberant on entry, the mousse becomes more of a caress, while bubbles dance playfully on the palate. Elegance, finesse, bright vitality, depth and power allied with a lightness of touch—it is difficult to encapsulate so many complementary and contradictory elements coming together in harmony.
Stylistically, Salon 1997 can be compared to the 1988, one of the great vintages which is just now coming to maturity. Acidity is slightly lower than the 1988 and the 1996, but equal to the 1985 and 1995, and higher than 1990. Fruit and sugar comparisons in the vineyard show slightly higher average potential alcohol (at 10.2 percent) than the 1996 (at 10 percent) and much higher than 1988 and 1995. Thus the 1997 finds itself somewhere between the femininity of the 1988 and the assertiveness of the 1985. An expressive wine that will hold for 20 years or more, this wine will be accessible in its youth in an elegant, refined way, yet its cellaring potential is typical of the great vintages of Salon.
Wine Enthusiast
The fabled Salon’s latest release is much riper and softer than the great steely 1996 vintage. This suggests it is likely to be ready to drink soon. In the meantime, the acidity is supremely fresh, with grapefruit edges and green apple flavors. And then there is minerality and a tight, structured aftertaste as a reminder that this great Champagne is always going to be more than its fruit.
Score: 96.
—Roger Voss,
December
01,
2008.
Wine Advocate
The 1997 Brut Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil possesses striking detail and depth in a surprisingly generous style for this wine. An inner core of perfumed varietal fruit emerges from the glass, along with expressive aromas of smoke, minerals, mint, flowers and licorice, all of which are woven together with extraordinary elegance. The finish is long, sweet and sublime. Everything about this wine speaks to elegance, but in 1997 Salon is also a pleasure to drink young, unlike the 1996 which remains painfully backward. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2027.
Score: 95.
—Antonio Galloni,
December
2008.
Wine Spectator
Subtle ginger, floral and citrus aromas build to flavors of lemon pie, honey and hazelnut. Elegant and refined, with a firm underlying structure and a long aftertaste. Drink now through 2020. 1,667 cases imported.
Score: 93.
—Bruce Sanderson,
June
15,
2008.
All sizes are 750mL unless otherwise noted.
Vintages and ratings subject to change at any time.
All pricing and availability subject to change.
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